MAINTAINING YOUR BLENDER IN GOOD CONDITION

wikiHow to Maintain Your Blender

http://www.wikihow.com/Maintain-Your-Blender

Community Q&A

Whether your blender is something you only bring out on special occasions or you have a smoothie every day for breakfast, a little simple maintenance will keep it running well for a long time. Keeping your blender in good shape will have you blending worry-free for years.

EditSteps

1. 
   1
   Assemble the blender properly and secure all the parts each time you use it. In most cases, an incorrectly assembled blender just won't work or won't work well, but sometimes, loose parts could fly out or you could damage the blender.
2. 
   2
   Blend only appropriate items. Despite the popularity of the "Will it Blend" series, you're best off using your blender for its intended use. If you do use a blender for making paper or some other non-food purpose, use a separate, inexpensive blender that you won't mind losing.
3. 
   3
   Cut up larger pieces of food. You can leave things in fairly large chunks, but make sure they are at least small enough to fit into the bottom part of your blender. Smaller chunks will blend easiest and handle the best.
4. 
   4
   Blend a little at a time. If you're not getting good results, pour out some of what you're blending into a separate bowl or other container, and only blend a little bit at a time. Blending too much is similar to trying to chew with too much in your mouth.
5. 
   5
   Use ample moisture. Add plenty of liquid to the mix that you're blending. A mixture that is too dry will behave like a paste and push up away from the blades. This is not necessarily harmful, but it's not too effective, either. Depending on what foods you're blending, you may add different liquids: water, milk, fruit juice, soup stock, and so on.
6. 
   6
   Choose a suitable speed and setting for what you are blending. Most blenders also have continuous and intermittent (pulse) modes.
7. 
   7
   Clean your blender after each use. Some blenders are self cleaning but if not, simply remove the vessel from the base pour water and soap or vinegar into the vessel and run it on "pulse" for a few moments. The base of the blender is an electrical device. Under no circumstances should water be placed in this assembly, and it should never be submerged in water. See warnings, below.
8. 
   8
   Unscrew the blade assembly and thoroughly clean the blender. You don't have to do this every time you use the blender, just every few times.
9. 
   9
   Wipe with a soft cloth after cleaning, taking care not to touch the blades. Make sure the blender has ample time to dry, and reassemble the blender with the rubber gasket or seal on the correct side of the blade assembly.
10. 
    10
    Troubleshoot specific problems with your blender.

    • Replace worn, bent, or dulled blades. They can't generally be sharpened.
    • Replace a broken or cracked pitcher. Most manufacturers offer replacements for sale.
    • If you have difficulty selecting different speeds, refer to your manual to make sure you are doing it right. Otherwise, service the speed control switch or have it serviced.
    • If the blades do not rotate, make sure it is plugged in and that the outlet has power. Make sure you have correctly selected a speed and turned the blender on. If you have checked all these things, suspect either the switch or the motor.
    • If the cutter shaft sticks, remove the jug, turn it upside down, and spray maintenance spray over the blades.
    • Check under the jug periodically to make sure that the little tabs at the base are all intact. If one or more are broken then you will need to replace the jug.

Community Q&A

• How many times can a blender be used daily?

  wikiHow Contributor

  That honestly depends on how much is going in it, what is going in it, and how long it is being run. The harder the items, and the thicker the mix, and longer it is being run, the fewer times it can be run without the motor having time to recover.

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Unanswered Questions

• Can I repair the motor if it accidentally gets liquid in it?

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EditTips

• Blenders are inexpensive. Unless you have, and need, an extremely fancy one, keep in mind that replacing the entire blender may be less costly than replacing a particular part, and almost certainly less costly than paying someone to service the blender.

EditWarnings

• If you decide to open up the motor assembly on your blender, be sure to unplug it first.
• Never run the motor under water. Using an electrical device in wet locations or submerging or allowing the motor or switch components can cause serious injury or death.
• Do not remove the lid before the motor has stopped.
• Never leave a blender unattended when it is plugged in.
• Do not run the blender empty. Always have something in the blender.
• Make sure the lid is on tight before you start the machine.

CHANGING ELECTRIC FUSE

How to Change an Electric Fuse

http://www.wikihow.com/Change-an-Electric-Fuse

Community Q&A

Contrary to popular belief, fuses offer superior protection to circuit breakers. The downfall is that many times, homeowners change fuses incorrectly. Keep reading for instructions on safely checking, sizing and replacing fuses in many older residential fuse boxes.

EditSteps

1. 
   1
   Determine that a fuse has opened (blown) by inspecting the metal link through the glass. You may have to open a door, but you do not need to remove covers.
2. 
   2
   Figure out what kind of fuse needs replaced.

   • For the screw-in type glass and type "S" tamperproof fuses:
     • If unable to visually inspect the metal link, use of a voltmeter, wiggy [1] or neon test light should resolve the problem by following the steps below (they may also be checked via continuity test light, this procedure is detailed further below).
     • While holding one probe or lead of the test equipment (meter, wiggy or light) to an unpainted exterior metal part of the fusebox, touch the other probe to the metal thread of the fuse holder / fuse. This is done by pushing the probe along the outside rim of the fuse until it contacts the aluminum or copper metal in to which the fuse screws in.
     • If you get an indication of power (120 volts indication or lamp) this is not the fuse that has opened. Continue checking the rest of the fuses by removing the probe from the the fuse tested, and repeating the procedure for the next fuse.
     • A fuse that does not test to 120 volts or does not fully illuminate the lamp, is a likely candidate for replacement (meters are always preferred over test lamps as a lamp may not provide enough of a change in brilliance that can be detected by eye).
     • Remove the fuse in doubt by turning it counter-clockwise.
     • If the fuse has ceramic or plastic threads and two small copper contacts under the head of the fuse, they are type "S" tamper-proof fuses. These fuses are a two piece protection system consisting of a threaded insert that is installed into the fusebox (like a regular glass fuse) and the the fuse itself that is installed into the insert. The fuses and inserts have different threads for the different values of fuses. The threads are such that they prevent installing a fuse with a value other than intended to protect the circuit (it is impossible to to put any fuse other than a 15 amp type "S" tamperproof fuse in a 15 amp insert, etc). The type "S" tamperproof fuse system removes the guesswork and danger of installing the wrong value fuses.
     • The standard glass fuses, like the type "S" tamper-proof counterparts, are available in 15, 20 and 30 amps values. There are also 10 and 25 amp, but are not very common.
     • To properly select glass replacement fuses, the cover of the fusebox should be removed. The 15 amp fuse is to protect #14 gauge copper wire, 20 amp fuse protect #12 copper wire, and 30 amp for #10 copper wire. These are the most common wire sizes in the fuse box. The #14 is the smallest wire connected to a glass fuse and the #10 is the largest wire connected to a glass fuse. There will probably only be (2) #10 wires, (4) #12 wires and the rest #14 wires. The #14 are used for general lighting and plugs throughout your house - except for those plugs in the kitchen, dining room, clothes washer & dryer. The #12 are for plugs in the kitchen, dining room, clothes washer and specialty or dedicated appliances such as larger room air conditioners, etc.. #10 may be used to feed an electric clothes dryer, electric water heater or another small panel elsewhere - garage, etc. These are estimates - all panels and homes differ, and this should only be considered a starting point.
     • You will see larger wires connected to the MAIN and RANGE fuse holders, and possibly wires that connect to 2 terminals at the bottom of the fuse block. These are usually used for an electric water heater or small panel elsewhere. Don't worry if you don't see these wires.
   • For the cartridge fuse types:
     • Generally, cartridge fuses do not have any visual indicator when they open. They must be checked with a voltmeter "in circuit" or with an ohm meter or continuity tester "out of circuit".
     • Many old fuse boxes provide for MAIN and RANGE fuse holders. The MAIN is designed for (2) 60 amp 250 volt fuses, and the range is designed for (2) 40 amp 250 volt fuses. With the fuses and the holders still in the fusebox, touch one probe to an unpainted metal surface of the fusebox. Locate the four small holes on the fuse holder, and press the other probe into the hole until it stops. Check for power indication. Repeat procedure for remaining 3 holes for this fuse holder. The holes align with the metal caps of the fuses, and should indicate power present at ALL four holes. Any hole without a power indication corresponds to an open fuse directly behind the hole under test.
     • Check the orientation of the fuse holder by looking for the ON and / or OFF indicators in the middle of the short sides of the fuse holder.
     • Remove the fuse holder by firmly pulling it straight out.
     • Remove the fuse in question and replace it with a maximum of a 40 amp fuse for the RANGE fuse holder or 60 amps for the MAIN fuse holder. You must use fuses rated for 250 volts.
     • Return the fuse holder to the fusebox observing the orientation of the holder (if you get it wrong, simply remove it, rotate the holder 180 degrees and reinsert).
3. 
   3
   As mentioned above, another method to check fuses requires a continuity tester or ohm meter. A continuity tester is similar to a test light, but that this light has its own power source (battery) as part of the tester. It must never be connected to another power source - the way a neon test light would. Regardless of the method used (ohm meter or continuity tester), the procedure is the same, after preparing the tool for use.

   • Continuity Test Light and Ohm Meter Method
     • Set the ohm meter to Ohms (R x 1 or R x 10 scale) / Turn the continuity tester on.
     • Put the meter probes onto the "Common" and "Ohms" jacks on the meter. Touch the opposite ends of the probes to each other. The meter should move to zero or close to it. Find the thumb wheel on the meter marked Ohms Adjust or Zero Adjust. Move the wheel to make the needle of the meter align with 0. The continuity light is checked by touching its probes together. The light on it should illuminate.
     • Remove the fuse to test from the panel completely. All fuses must have a way for electricity to enter and exit. Cartridge fuses have these points at the ends of their body. They may be tested without removing them from the fuse holder. Placing the fuse or fuse in the fuse holder on a non-conductive surface, and touch a probe to each end. A zero reading on the meter or light on the continuity tester indicates a good fuse. Glass fuses have these points located at the center of the bottom of the fuse and the threaded sides (just like a light bulb). Touch the probes to these points to test the fuse. Again, we're looking for a zero reading or the continuity light to illuminate. Lastly, the type "S" tamperproof fuse points are the center bottom (like the glass fuses) and any copper contact point(s) on the underside of the top of the fuse.

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EditTips

• A visual inspection of glass fuses may not always reveal an open fuse. Sometimes, the fuse opens in an area that can not be seen. A meter or continuity light will reveal an opened fuse every time.
• When testing fuses with an ohm meter or continuity lamp, the fuse under test must be on an insulated surface. It must not be in you hand, either. Failing to observe these conditions may cause erroneous results, as the surface or skin may provide an electrical path AROUND instead of THROUGH the fuse.
• The "continuity test light" or "ohm meter" method of checking fuses is the safest way to check fuses - as the test is conducted on the de-energized fuse while it is out of the fusebox. For this reason, it is highly recommended.
• After you've reviewed all the circuits in the fusebox, it may be wise to have the type "S" tamperproof fuse system installed. An electrician might be the best source for this installation, only because if the wrong insert is installed, it will not come out without damaging the fusebox.

EditWarnings

• Never install a fuse larger than what the circuit was designed to be protected with.
• Never install a foreign object in place of / or behind a fuse.
• Using the Ohm meter or continuity test light method is the safest way to test fuses.
• Never try to remove the type "S" inserts installed into a fuse box. They are designed to be turned in clockwise, not out counter-clockwise. Severe damage to the fusebox will result if attempting to remove the inserts.

HOW TO USE MULTI-TESTER

How to Use a Digital Multimeter

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Digital-Multimeter

Five Methods:Measuring ResistanceMeasuring VoltageMeasuring CurrentTesting DiodesMeasuring ContinuityCommunity Q&A

A multimeter, also called a volt-ohm meter or VOM, is a device that measures resistance, voltage and current in electronic circuits. Some also test diodes and continuity. Multimeters are small, lightweight and battery operated, and they can test a wide variety of electronic components in many situations, making them indispensable tools for anyone who needs to test and repair electronic circuits.

Method1

EditMeasuring Resistance

1. 
   1
   Connect the multimeter to the circuit. Insert the black probe into the common terminal and the red probe into the terminal marked for measuring volts and ohms. The terminal may also be marked for testing diodes.
2. 
   2
   Twist the selector knob to set the multimeter to measure resistance. This may be represented by the Greek letter Omega, which stands for ohms, the unit of measurement for resistance.
3. 
   3
   Turn off power to the circuit.
4. 
   4
   Remove the resistor you want to measure. If you leave the resistor in the circuit you may not get an accurate reading.
5. 
   5
   Touch the tips of the probes to each side of the resistor.
6. 
   6
   Read the display, taking care to note the units. A reading of 10 may indicate 10 ohms, 10 kilo-ohms or 10 mega-ohms.

Method2

EditMeasuring Voltage

1. 
   1
   Connect the multimeter to a circuit. Put the black probe in the common terminal and the red probe in the terminal marked for measuring volts and ohms.
2. 
   2
   Set the multimeter for the voltage you're measuring. You can measure volts DC (direct current), millivolts DC or volts AC (alternating current). If your multimeter has an auto-range function, it's not necessary to select the voltage you're measuring.
3. 
   3
   Measure AC voltage by placing the probes across the component. It's not necessary to observe polarity.
4. 
   4
   Observe polarity when measuring DC voltage or millivoltage. Place the black probe on the negative side of the component and the red probe on the positive side.
5. 
   5
   Read the display, taking care to note the units.

   • If you prefer, you can use the touch-hold feature to keep the reading on the display after you remove the probes. The multimeter will beep each time a new voltage is detected.

Method3

EditMeasuring Current

1. 
   1
   Choose either the terminal marked for measuring 10 amps or the one marked for measuring 300 milliamps (mA). If you're unsure of the current, start in the 10 amp terminal until you're sure the current is less than 300 milliamps.
2. 
   2
   Set the multimeter to measure current. This may be represented by the letter A.
3. 
   3
   Turn off power to the circuit.
4. 
   4
   Break the circuit. To measure current, you must place the multimeter in series with the circuit. Place the probes on either side of the break, observing polarity (black probe on negative side, red probe on positive side.)
5. 
   5
   Turn the power on. The current will run through the circuit, up the red probe and through the multimeter, then out the black probe and into the circuit.
6. 
   6
   Read the display, remembering whether you are measuring amps or milliamps.You can use the touch-hold feature if desired.

Method4

EditTesting Diodes

1. 
   1
   Insert the black probe into the common terminal and the red probe into the terminal marked for measuring ohms, volts or diode test.
2. 
   2
   Use the selector knob to choose the test diode function. This may be represented by a symbol representing a diode, an arrow pointing at a vertical line.
3. 
   3
   Turn the power off to the circuit.
4. 
   4
   Test forward bias. Place the red probe on the positive side of the diode and the black probe on the negative side. If you get a reading of less than 1 but more than 0, the forward bias is good.
5. 
   5
   Reverse the probes to test reverse bias. If the display reads "OL (overload)," this indicates that reverse bias is good.
6. 
   6
   A reading of "OL" or 0 while testing forward bias, and 0 while testing reverse bias indicates that the diode is bad.

   • Some multimeters will beep when the reading is less than 1. This doesn't necessarily indicate a good diode, because a shorted diode will also cause a beep.

Method5

EditMeasuring Continuity

1. 
   1
   Put the black probe into the common terminal and the red probe into the terminal used to measure volts and ohms.
2. 
   2
   Set the multimeter to the same setting you use to test diodes.
3. 
   3
   Turn the power off to the circuit.
4. 
   4
   Place the leads on either side of the section of circuit you're testing. It's not necessary to observe polarity. A reading of less than 210 ohms indicates good continuity.

Community Q&A

• Can I test a switch with a multimeter?

  wikiHow Contributor

  It depends on the type of switch. If the switch controls a software, you cannot, but if the switch is an ordinary mechanical switch, you can.

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• How can I tell if an I.C is good?

  wikiHow Contributor

  Integrated circuits cannot be tested with continuity unless you are familiar with the pin assignments, i.e. B+, Gnd, input, output etc. Continuity tests can only tell you if an internal connection is open or shorted. One effective way of testing the condition of an I.C is to refer to the schematic diagram to where it is connected. In the diagram, you can see voltage measurements during normal operation. You can now compare your readings to the schematics. Any voltage reading which does not coincide with the schematics will tell you that something is wrong with the circuit where the I.C is connected. There are "passive" devices around the I.C to consider also.

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• How do I test a hot water heater element?

  wikiHow Contributor

  You can use a multimeter across the two poles to see if there is continuity. If there's no continuity, then the element is burnt out or broken. Also, test continuity between live and earth to see if there is a possible short circuit. This is a dangerous situation which could burn your house down if there is no earth leakage system in your house. Call an electrician if you don't know what you are doing.

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Unanswered Questions

• How do I troubleshoot a circuit?

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• Is there a connection diagram for checking milliamps using a digital multimeter?

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EditVideo

EditWarnings

• Never use a multimeter to test whether a high-voltage circuit is dead, on circuits that use more than 4800 watts, on a main power supply to a building, when the multimeter's battery is low or if its probes are damaged. All these conditions represent a significant shock hazard.

EditThings You'll Need

• Multimeter
• Leads
• Electronic Circuit